Yes -I too thought that the rotisserie would be the last piece of garage gear that would be required to work the car. The big issue though - the rotisserie is tied fairly rigidly to the front and rear of the car... so if the rotisserie was to roll across fairly uneven ground... I could run the risk of twisting (or worse) the car while its suspended.
I went out looking at a number of different designs, and really liked the one that I believe is made by Auto-Twirler and resold by Eastwood. Its pretty conventional, four posts, with sliding inner/outer runners between posts.
Of course, no piece of garage gear would be complete without a set of casters. I was able to reuse ones from a crate of old casters I bought two or three years ago in Cedar Rapids.
Here's a mockup of one post almost completed. You'll notice the smaller sized square tubing on one side and larger on the other. I think the dimensions on it was 1.5 and 2.0 inch with just enough play for each piece to fit into the other.
I added the nut and 1 inch threaded rod to the design, because my car for certain wasn't deisgned underneath to be level across the board. Adjustabiltiy is a nice trait to have.
Above is a picture of the posts and runners mocked together. At this point I hadn't affixed the nuts and bolts which were used to provide the squeeze keeping the runners from slipping outward or inward.
They are however seen below.
Here's the completed picture. In the end, I think I did make the cart a smidge too wide, as the front frame rails on the Mustang don't sit in the cart when they're at their thinnest point. But - I didn't want the car to be prone to tipping either... so I left it as is.
Now the car is sitting on it fairly nicely. Next step is to slide the car back into the driveway and do some more sand blasting in the trunk area. After pulling the tail pan, I found some corrosion that I can't get off easily with my airtools, so time to get dusty!
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As an aside, I rode with my buddy Greg from work out to York, Nebraska to deliver his Duster to a guy who will do a heavy 'freshen up' exercise on it. While en-route we stopped by an old yard known as Utica Bills. I snapped a few shots of the cars in the lot... but the few pictures I did take don't do it justice. It sounded like this was 20% of his collection. All the more desirable stuff is in closed/covered storage somewhere else.
Something about this hood spoke to me - I think I'll crop it and use it as the background on my phone.
This old race car was neat to see. Even more neat was when I got closer to the engine and saw an old hemi sitting under the hood!
As an aside to an aside of the above, I had done a fair amount of reading the Mustang boards and found some guys who had taken explorer rear axles and put them under their classic Mustangs as the overall width was within a half inch I believe (on the larger side) of what the stock 8 inch was from the factory... at least for my car in 1969.
Ford Explorer rear axles come in several varieties... posi and non-posi, with numerous gear ratios... and centered/offset.
Here's what I've been able to pick up in my head - Mid-90's Ford Explorers in the 2WD variety have a centered pumpkin.... there's a downside though... its also non-posi.
4WD is posi. AND it has higher spline axles by default. The hitch is -- because the 4WD unit has the transfer case, which offsets the rear driveshaft from center. Thus, the rear pumpkin is offset by two inches.
It turns out - one can narrow the housing (the longer end) by two inches to recenter the housing.
From there you just need the short axle shaft out of another 4WD Explorer to match up both sides and you're off and running.
A visit to the local Wrench and Go found me plenty of doner vehicles. the D4 Axle noted in the picture below would be tho most idea in my opinion because its got a 3.73 gear ratio and Posi versus 4.10 or something crazy like 3.1 or 3.2 (I can't remember specifically).
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